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Carpet Terms


Carpet TermsWe found this great article on carpet terms from the Carpet and Rug Institute. Check it out below to see how many terms you are familiar with and be sure to use them the next time you have your carpets professionally cleaned!


"CRI has listed some basic terminology below to help you become more educated when it comes to your carpet purchase and installation. Familiarizing yourself with these common carpet terms will help you communicate more effectively with your carpet retailer and installer, and it will help you make the most informed carpet decisions possible.

Antimicrobial — A chemical treatment added to carpet to reduce the growth of common bacteria, fungi, yeast, mold and mildew.

Antistatic — The ability of a carpet system to dissipate an electrostatic charge before it reaches the threshold of human sensitivity.

Attached Cushion — A cushioning material, such as foam, rubber, urethane, PVC, etc., adhered to the back side of a carpet to provide additional dimensional stability, thickness and padding.

Average Pile Yarn Weight —Mass per unit area of the pile yarn including buried portions of the pile yarn. In the United States, it is usually expressed as ounces per square yard.

Backing — Fabrics and yarns that make up the back of the carpet as opposed to the carpet pile or face. In tufted carpet:

* Primary backing — A woven or nonwoven fabric in which the yarn is inserted by the tufting needles.

* Secondary backing — Fabric laminated to the back of the carpet to increase dimensional stability.

In woven carpet, the backing consists of “construction yarns” which are interwoven with the face yarn.


Berber — A loop-pile carpet style tufted with thick yarn, such as wool, nylon or olefin. Often having random specks of color in contrast to a base hue, this carpet style has a full, comfortable feel, while maintaining an informal, casual look. Currently, this term has expanded to describe many level or multilevel loop carpet styles.

Binding — A band or strip sewn over a carpet edge to protect, strengthen or decorate the edge.

Broadloom — A term used to denote carpet produced in widths wider than 6 feet. Broadloom is usually 12 feet wide, but may also be 13 feet 6 inches and 15 feet wide.

Bulked continuous filament (BCF) — Continuous strands of synthetic fiber formed into yarn bundles of a given number of filaments and texturized to increase bulk and cover. Texturizing changes the straight filaments into kinked or curled configurations.

Construction — The manufacturing method (i.e., tufted, woven) and the final arrangement of fiber and backing materials as stated in its specification.

Cushion — Any kind of material placed under carpet to provide softness and adequate support when it is walked upon. Carpet cushion provides a softer feel underfoot and provides added acoustical and insulation benefits and longer wear life for the carpet. In some cases, the carpet cushion is attached to the carpet when it is manufactured. Also referred to as “padding” or “underlay,” although “cushion” is the preferred term. Cushion under most residential carpet should be a thickness of no greater than 7/16" and no less than 1/4" with 6 pound per cubic feet density. If the carpet is a Berber or a low profile carpet, choose a cushion of no more than 3/8" thickness with 8 pounds of density.

Cut Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of cut ends of pile yarn.

Cut-Loop Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of a combination of cut ends of pile yarns and loops.

Delamination — Separation of the secondary backing or attached cushion from the primary backing of the carpet.

Density — Refers to the amount of pile yarn in the carpet and the closeness of the tufts. In general, the denser the pile, the better the performance.

Dimensional Stability — The ability of the carpet to retain its original size and shape, e.g. a secondary backing adds dimensional stability to carpet.

Direct Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet is adhered to the floor.

Double Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet cushion is first adhered to the floor with an adhesive, and the carpet is then glued to the cushion.

Filament — A single continuous strand of natural or synthetic fiber.

Finished Yarn Weight —Yarn weight in ounces/square yard of a finished (after manufacturing process) carpet. The finished yarn weight is determined by removing all yarn from the finished carpet and dissolving any foreign non-yarn materials.

Fluffing — Appearance on carpet surface of loose fiber fragments left during manufacture; not a defect, but a characteristic that disappears after carpet use and vacuuming. Sometimes called “fuzzing” or “shedding.”

Frieze — Pronounced "free-zay," this tightly twisted yarn gives carpet a rough, nubby appearance.

Fuzzing — Hairy effect on fabric surface caused by fibers slipping out of the yarn with wear or wet cleaning.

Gauge — The distance between two needle points expressed in fractions of an inch. Applies to both knitting and tufting.

Hand — The tactile aesthetic qualities of carpet and textiles, how it feels to the hand.

Heat Setting— The process that sets the twist by heat or steam, enabling yarns to hold their twist over time. Important in cut pile carpet. Most nylon, olefin and polyester cut-pile carpet are heat-set.

Indoor/Outdoor Carpet — A term synonymous with outdoor carpet.

Level Loop — The pile loops are of substantially the same height and uncut, making a smooth, level surface.

Loop Pile — Carpet style having a pile surface consisting of uncut loops. May be woven or tufted. Also called “round wire” in woven carpet terminology.

Luster — Brightness or sheen of fibers, yarns, carpet or fabrics.

Miter Joint — A junction of two pieces of carpet (or other material) at an angle. Most miter joints involve pieces at right angles to one another with their ends cut at 45 degrees to form the joint.

Pile — The visible surface of carpet consisting of yarn tufts in loop and/or cut configuration. Sometimes called “face” or “nap”.

Pile Crush — Loss of pile thickness due to compression and bending of tufts caused by traffic and heavy furniture. The tufts collapse into the air space between them. This may be irreversible if the yarn has inadequate resilience or the pile has insufficient density for the traffic load. Frequent vacuuming will lift the pile for longer carpet life.

Pilling — A condition of the carpet face (which may occur from heavy traffic) in which fibers from different tufts become entangled with one another, forming tangled masses of fibers. Pills may be cut off with scissors.

Plush — Luxuriously smooth-textured carpet surface in which individual tufts are only minimally visible and the overall visual effect is that of a single level of yarn ends. This finish is normally achieved only on cut-pile carpet produced from spun yarns by brushing and shearing. Sometimes called “velvet-plush.”

Ply — 1. A single-end component in a plied yarn. 2. The number that tells how many single ends have been ply-twisted together to form a plied yarn, e.g., two-ply or three-ply.

Power Stretcher — A carpet installation tool used to stretch carpet for installation with a tackless strip. According to industry standards, residential carpet, installed over A cushion with a tackless strip, must be power-stretched to prevent wrinkles and ripples.

Resilience
— Ability of carpet pile or cushion to recover original appearance and thickness after being subjected to compressive forces or crushing under traffic.

Saxony — A cut-pile carpet texture with twisted yarns in a relatively dense, erect configuration. The effect is well-defined tuft tips.

Seams — In a carpet installation, the line formed by joining the edges of two pieces of carpet by the use of seaming tapes, hand sewing or other techniques.

Seam Sealing — A procedure in which a continuous bead of adhesive is applied to the trimmed edges of carpet to be joined at a seam. Seam sealing prevents fraying and unraveling at the seam.

Serging — A method of finishing edges of area rugs by use of heavy, colored yarn sewn around the edges in a close, overcast stitch.

Shading — A change in the appearance of a carpet due to localized distortions in the orientation of the fibers, tufts or loops. Shading is not a change in color or hue, but a difference in light reflection.

Sisal — A carpet style mimicking the woven look of rugs made from a natural plant fiber. The pattern has the appearance of interwoven webs but is created on a tufting machine by continually adjusting the height of each pile yarn.

Soil Retardant — A chemical finish applied to fibers or carpet surfaces that inhibit the attachment of soil.

Sprouting — Protrusion of individual tuft or yarn ends above the pile surface. May be clipped with scissors.

Staple — Short lengths of fiber that may be converted into spun yarns by textile yarn spinning processes. These spun yarns are also called “staple” yarns. For carpet yarns spun on the common, modified worsted systems, most staple is six to eight inches long. Staple fiber may also be converted directly into nonwoven fabrics, such as needle-punched carpet.

Stitches — Stitches per inch. Number of yarn tufts per running inch of a single tuft row in tufted carpet.

Stretch-In — Installation procedure for installing carpet over a separate cushion using a tackless strip; properly performed with a power stretcher.

Tackless Strip — Wood or metal strips fastened to the floor near the walls of a room containing either two or three rows of pins angled toward the walls on which the carpet backing is stretched and secured in a stretch-in installation.

Tuft Bind — Force required to pull a tuft from the carpet.


Tufted — Carpet manufactured by the insertion of tufts of yarn through a carpet-backing fabric, creating a pile surface of cut and/or loop ends.

Twist—- The winding of the yarn around itself. Should be neat and well defined. A tighter twist provides enhanced durability.

Underlay — Carpet cushion under rugs.

Woven — Carpet produced on a weaving loom in which the lengthwise yarns and widthwise yarns are interlaced to form the fabric, including the face and the backing.

Yarn Ply — The number of single yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn.

Hope this helps you better understand carpet!

Tips to Hiring a Professional Carpet Cleaner

Inviting a professional carpet cleaner into your home can be a tough decision. Looking for somebody who will take care of your carpets the way that you would doesn't always happen. You can improve your chances of finding the best carpet cleaning company in your area by making sure you get all the information you can ahead of time.


Make sure the company is certified.

Certification ensures that your carpet cleaning professional has taken steps to educate themselves in the best carpet care and carpet cleaning techniques available. The largest is the Institute for Cleaning Restoration Certification (IICRC).

What kind of guarantee is offered?
If there is a problem with the performance of the carpet cleaning professional, make sure the guarantee provides for a follow up cleaning at no charge. It is usually best to contact the professional right away as most guarantees last between 14-30 days.

Make sure to get a full list of services included in a price quote.
It is best to have a list of all the basics steps the carpet cleaning professional will be performing such as pre-spraying or pre-treating the carpet and basic stain spotting. Find out ahead of time the charges for extra services such as such as pet odor removal or tough stain removals.

Who will be actually coming to your home and what are their qualifications?
If employees come to clean your carpet important questions should be asked such as:
  • do they wear uniforms?
  • are all employees safely identifiable?
  • does the company guarantee the work if it is a subcontractor?

Find out exactly what methods are used to clean your carpet.
Understanding some basic differences in carpet cleaning techniques will help you to choose what is best for your carpet and ultimately who the best professional for the job is.

Steam cleaning may be best for those who suffer from asthma and allergies. With steam cleaning, you can get rid of most fungi, dust mites as well as viruses. It is recommended that you steam clean your carpets at least once every two years depending on how many people live in your household and how often they walk over a particular carpet.

Dry powder carpet cleaning is a method to clean your carpets without soaking them. A powder is spread onto your carpet, and is agitated and worked into the carpet with either an orbital floor machine with a round plastic bristle brush or a machine with counter rotating plastic brushes. This powder acts like thousands of little sponges scrubbing and absorbing dirt from the carpet as it is agitated. After the powder dries, in only a few minutes, the carpet is vacuumed to remove the sponges and the floor is ready to be used.

Shampoo cleaning, also referred to as encapsulation, involves the application of a shampoo to the carpet. This shampoo absorbs soil and then crystallizes. It is then agitated by a brush mounted on a floor machine and vacuumed up. Drying time is from one to two hours.


Now you know all the important questions to ask a carpet cleaning company before you sign any agreement with them. One last tip is to ask for references. If they do a good job, they won’t mind giving you references.


*If you have a favorite carpet cleaner in your area, please let us know! CleaningBuddys is compiling a searchable database for our website. Your input will help others find services they need while helping your provider's company grow in this economy!












The Ultimate Solution in Easy Furniture Lifting!

We've all heard the warnings to take care care of your back! Yet when we have to lift something heavy most of us resort to the easiest position of bending over and lifting, putting a strain on the back and possibly causing an injury! However, there is a solution, with the the patented Lift Buddy, a carpet cleaning tool used by professionals that is now available to homeowners!














You can lift heavy couches, dressers, tables, and beds without strain! Simply place the tip of the Lift Buddy under the edge of the piece of furniture you want to lift and firmly press down on the handle and the Lift Buddy raises the furniture so that you can place a slider under the leg. Repeat the process on all 4 legs and now you can easily move the furniture around the room, or clean the floors without any strain on your back.

How does it work?
The handle of the Lift Buddy has a rubber grip, so that you can hold it firmly. The strong metal handle is designed to give you the leverage you need to EASILY lift the corners of any type of furniture. The non-marking wheels are designed to help you move or roll slightly as you lift the furniture. The tip is tapered so it will slide under that edge of the furniture to give the lift power. Be sure to watch the video to see how it works.


Simply place the tip of the Lift Buddy under the edge of the furniture that you want to place a slider under and apply pressure on the rubber handle. Lift just high enough to place the slider under the leg. Repeat the same process on each corner of the piece you are wanting to move and then slide it with ease.

Made in the USA!
The Lift Buddy was developed in 1992, making it the original back-saving lifting device! It is still manufactured in the USA, using top quality materials and following the strict design of the US held patent. CleaningBuddys is proud to offer this superior product in our line of professional tools for the home!


Introducing the Wall Buddy... the Original Professionally Designed Corner Guard!

The Ultimate Solution in Corner Protection! Do you have black marks on the corners of your walls and furniture? With the Wall Buddy you will never have to worry about that again. This cleaning tool is used by professional carpet cleaners to protect corners from those black hoses of the vacuum and any other cords that are pulled around in your home.
The Wall Buddy is made from a light weight non-marking durable plastic and fits protectively over the corners of your walls and then stores nicely in the closet when you are done.

Who is the Wall Buddy for?
The Wall Buddy is for everyone who uses any type of cord or hose in the home. Get them out when your cleaning people, your carpet cleaner or any other professional who pulls a hose or cord is working in your home. Use them during renovation or repair work. You'll find many uses for this Original corner guard!

Who Developed the Wall Buddy?
The Wall Buddy was developed by a professional carpet cleaner in 1998 who knew that there had to be a way to protect the corners of the walls and furniture in the homes he cleaned in. So after some thought he created the Wall Buddy and has found that it is the perfect housecleaning companion to protect those corners in every home.










Hundreds of thousands have been sold throughout the world to carpet cleaners and other professionals. Now you can have it for your home. Buy Now from CleaningBuddys!

How does it work?
The Wall Buddy is made from non-marking durable plastic. It makes a 45 degree angle and has a wide platform that fits snugly onto corners making a barrier between the wall and the hoses or cords. The handy holes near the top make it easy to carry and set in place. Professionals recommend at least three for residential use but more may be practical depending on your floorplan, placement of furniture, and how often you plan to use them.
The simple design makes them stack and store neatly!








You don't have to be embarrassed of the corners in your home anymore! Keep the clean and protected with this wonderful addition to your home cleaning arsenal.

Review: SteamFast SF-140 Steam Mop

This is supposed to be the best inexpensive Steam Mop.
Read the review below to find out more!

Best inexpensive steam mop?



















pros

* Swiveling mop head
* Uses tap water
* Easy to fill and maneuver
* 19-foot power cord
* Removable handle

cons

* Durability complaints
* Relatively small water reservoir
* Can leave floors wet
* Can't be used on all types of flooring
* Doesn't sanitize unless left in place for 15 seconds


Reviewers and owners agree that the SteamFast SF-140 steam mop is the best option in its price range, although the Bissell 1867-7 steam mop (*est. $80) gets better reviews overall. The SteamFast mop can steam for about 12 minutes without refilling (compared to 15 minutes for the Bissell version), and reviews say it cuts right through dried liquids and other stains on a variety of flooring materials.

As with all steam mops, the SteamFast SF-140 should not be used on unsealed wood or cork floors. Some owners say that they use towels to absorb excess water left on the floor after mopping, but this is a very common complaint about steam mops. If you can budget more for a steam mop, reviews say that the Bissell 1867-7 is sturdier.


We read the best review of the SteamFast SF-140 at KYW-TV's website CBS3.com, which records the results of Good Housekeeping's steam-mop testing. This mop aced the testing and outperformed the other two mops tested. At Amazon.com, this mop has garnered a handful of reviews, but at Walmart.com, it's been reviewed more than 150 times.



You can view more reviews at: http://www.consumersearch.com/steam-mops/steamfast-sf-140-steam-mop