Removing Stains from Oriental Rugs

Coffee, soda, wine, nail polish and pet urine are all likely candidates for rug stains. You've probably encountered at least one of these stains on your rugs in the past. Removing spills and stains from plain carpeting is difficult enough, but stains on Oriental rugs require special removal methods.


1. Remove as much of the stain from your Oriental rug as soon as possible. If you wait too long, the stain will set, making it harder to remove and possibly damaging your rug.

2. Press the stain with a soft, white, absorbent cloth such as a towel or napkin. Keep blotting until you've soaked as much of the liquid as possible.

3. Dilute the spill with water. Use enough to wet the stain but not to soak the rug.

4. Continue blotting with a white cloth to remove as much of the diluted stain as possible.

5. Use a solution of 1 tablespoon of distilled white vinegar per 1 cup of water to dilute pet urine stains. As with other stains, keep blotting until you remove as much of the liquid as possible.

6. Consider taking your rug to a professional Oriental rug cleaner as soon as you can if you just can't get the stain out yourself. You want to preserve your rug as best as you can.

Other tips and techniques:

Once set, pet urine begins to change the chemical composition of rug dyes, so try to check your Oriental rugs often if your pet frequently urinates on your floors.

If you notice an old stain on your Oriental rug, vacuum first before removing the stain in the same way as you would a new stain.

Don't rub stains on Oriental rugs, as this only spreads them around. Remember to blot instead.

Don't use spot removers made for wall-to-wall carpeting on Oriental rugs. They'll damage the rug's wool pile.

Don't use urine removers containing enzymes on Oriental rugs, as they feed on wool.



This article was provided by EHow.com

Removing Scuff Marks from Walls

"Do you have the scuff marks on your wall?? Tired of frequently painting walls to remove them? Try the Wall Buddy to protect your walls from scuff marks.



To Remove Scuff Marks From Walls

1. Try removing the scuff from the wall as soon as it happens, using a large pencil eraser first. While it may take several tries, see if the scuff mark relents at all

2. If the scuff mark doesn't start to disappear, use a soft-heeled shoe like a flat orthopedic shoe, on the wall in the reverse way the scuff was made. Try using a test piece of the scuff first before spreading it across the entire abrasion of the wall. Sometimes, the rubber can act as an eraser or other times it can make it worse. So use with caution.

3. Using a wet washcloth or sponge, scrub the wall for about 30 seconds to see if the scuff begins to disappear. Usually, if a wall is easy to scuff, it will be easily cleaned with water. Another hint this tip will work is if the wall paint feels gritty but does not have a gritty composition.

4.Use a small amount of non-abrasive soap on the wall, with your wet sponge. Sometimes, a little soap on flat paint or semi-gloss will remove the scuff mark without removing the paint.

5. If you have a textured wall or ceiling, gently use a wet Brillo pad instead of a washcloth for wall-washing.


If none of these tips works, chances are you have a deeper scratch instead of a wall scuff. This can best be fixed by painting or calling a maintenance professional.

If you have another color under your paint, be very careful while scrubbing as it may reveal itself. Also be aware if paint comes off on your sponge, washcloth, or Brillo pad as this may make paint lighter in that particular area from now on."


To prevent black marks from hoses of the vacuum and other cords pulled around in your home, use the Wall Buddy



Information provided by Ehow.com

Carpet Fiber Primer

What to Know Before Buying Carpet - Part Three


A carpet's appearance, texture, and longevity also are determined by its fibers. The pile can be natural, synthetic, or a blend of several fibers.


Wool is strong, static-resistant, and pleasing to the touch.
What to know: It is the fiber that most synthetic fibers are meant to imitate, and it is more costly than those materials. Wool is resilient and also naturally stain-resistant and flame-retardant. Note that a wool carpet will shed a bit initially.


Silk carpet is largely produced in India, China, and Turkey.
What to know: Carpets made from silk are soft and luxurious. Silk dyes better and is more durable than any other fiber. Because of silk's high cost, the fiber is often blended with wool.


Cotton carpeting was popular in the United States before World War II. Today, it's made almost exclusively in Belgium.
What to know: Cotton carpet, like cotton clothing, wears well and has a natural feel. A magnet for dust and dirt, it should not be used in high-traffic areas.


Linen yarn is made from flax. Most linen carpeting is produced in France and Belgium (the latter is generally considered the better quality).
What to know: Linen carpet is lustrous and can help absorb humidity. However, it can be quite costly, and with age, linen carpet will reveal traffic patterns.


Sisal comes from the agave plant; the highest-quality fibers are from East Africa.
What to know: Sisal is strong (second only to wool). It is one of the more pricey plant fibers. Sisal is particularly prone to fading in direct sunlight and can be stained even by water.


Jute flooring is made from the jute plant, which also is used to make burlap and twine.
What to know: Jute is softer than sisal but also less durable. Like sisal, it can be damaged easily by sunlight and liquids.


Coir is the fiber taken from the hairy husk of coconuts.
What to know: Coir is durable, wiry, and mildew-resistant. In other words, coir makes the perfect doormat.


Sea grass carpet is made from a variety of reedy plants and has a greenish tint.
What to know: Although durable, sea grass carpets are not very absorbent; they should not be used in moist or humid rooms. Sea grass costs less than sisal and jute.


Paper carpet is made from paper cords coated in a protective wax.
What to know: Paper carpet is, in fact, quite strong. It is more water-resistant than carpets made from other plant fibers, but liquid spills should still be blotted immediately.


Polyester has a wool-like appearance and is often used for cut-pile carpets. It dyes well, so it's available in a range of vibrant colors.
What to know: Polyester carpet is soft, stain-resistant, and affordable. It's not as resilient as other carpet fibers, and may mat down in a short period.


Olefin is a glossy synthetic fiber usually sold in muted colors.
What to know:Olefin is one of the less expensive synthetics. Water-and stain-resistant, it's often used outdoors. However, the fiber crushes easily.


Nylon is the most popular carpet fiber in the United States.
What to know: Nylon is durable, resilient, and stain-resistant. It is one of the more expensive synthetic fibers. The fiber comes in many hues; look for solution-dyed nylon, which is colorfast



From Martha Stewart Living, September 2005

Kinds of Carpet

What to Know Before Buying Carpet - Part Two



How a carpet's pile is cut and shaped contributes to its look and feel -- short or shaggy, soft or nubby -- and to how well the product wears.

Sisal-like carpets are meant to imitate the look of sisal or other plant fibers and are made from wool or a synthetic.
What to know: These mimics are softer underfoot than the real thing, and they release stains better. However, many people prefer the appearance of real sisal.


Wilton is considered the premier woven carpet. It is made on a jacquard loom and can have cut, loop, or cut-and-loop pile.
What to know: These carpets are tightly constructed, making them dense and durable. Worsted-wool Wiltons are some of the best carpets available.


Saxony carpet yarns have a soft twist or curl; the pile is often cut at an angle.
What to know: Saxony is not quite as textured as frieze but it still effectively conceals marks, making the carpet a popular choice for children's rooms and family rooms.


Velvet carpet is soft, like the fabric for which it's named. The pile is short, uniform, and dense.
What to know: The carpet has a matte finish, giving it an understated appeal. Velvet pile generally holds up well but, like plush, its uniform surface exposes indentations and tracks.


Frieze is a cut-pile carpet with twisted yarns and a crimped, textured appearance.
What to know: The twisted strands of a frieze carpet obscure footprints and vacuum marks well, and the tousled look complements an informal room.


Shag has pile so long it doesn't stand upright, giving a carpet a "shaggy" look.
What to know: No longer just a throwback to the 1960s and '70s, today's shags come in contemporary colors and have an inviting feel. But those long yarns can still get caught in the rotating head of a vacuum.


Axminster is a cut-pile carpet that is woven by definition. It is often called "pub carpet," a reference to the carpet's frequent appearance in restaurants and hotels.
What to know: Axminster tends to be the most affordable of the woven carpets and is available in a wide range of colors. Like a Wilton, it is long-wearing. But it is not as refined and may appear industrial.


Berber once referred specifically to an undyed Moroccan rug. Today the term is used broadly to describe most loop-pile carpets.
What to know: Because loop pile has no exposed tips (unlike cut pile), it is especially durable. This makes berber a good choice for high-traffic areas, such as family rooms, hallways, and staircases.


Ribbed cut can be a cut-and-loop pile or a cut-pile carpet that is trimmed in areas to create carved designs; it may also have color variations throughout.
What to know: Because its textured surface can camouflage marks and stains, ribbed cut is another good choice for children's rooms or other high-traffic spaces.


Plush pile is cut to a smooth, level height. It is higher and less dense than velvet.
What to know: Plush carpet is comfortable underfoot, making it a cozy covering for a bedroom floor. But its pile is easily crushed, revealing indentations.

Go to Part Three of What to Know Before Buying Carpet

From Martha Stewart Living, September 2005

What to Know Before Buying Carpet

Great tips from Martha Stewart on What to Know Before Buying Carpet.

A walk through the basics of choosing the perfect floor covering...

Carpet tends to be underfoot and out of mind. But when it's time to choose a new one, all thoughts turn to the floor. Here are the pros and cons of common carpet styles and fibers as well as a translation of some showroom lingo.

The carpets here can be installed wall to wall or ordered in a specific size with bound edges to be used as an area rug -- a good solution for large or oddly shaped rooms. (Specialty area rugs, such as Orientals, have their own considerations and are not included here.)

One of the first choices to make is between tufted and woven construction. Most carpets are tufted, consisting of rows of machine-punched yarns held together by adhesive and a backing. They generally last between five and seven years. Woven carpets, made on a loom, are known for their long life span -- 20 to 30 years. You'll pay significantly more for the higher quality. Most of the styles and fibers listed here are used for both woven and tufted carpet. So start looking -- and you're on your way to kicking off your shoes.

Get in the Loop
Identifying styles of pile -- the yarn that makes up a carpet -- becomes easy when you see samples up close. Pile is sheared for "cut pile" or left intact for "loop pile". A combination is called "cut-and-loop pile."

Dive into the Pile
Seeing and touching carpet samples will drive home their differences -- and your preferences. Pile heights include short velvet piles and longer plushes; deeper pile has a more luxurious feel, but short pile tends to be easier to care for. A carpet label is required by law to list fiber content and country of origin; some will include additional helpful details.

The Next Steps
As you shop, take the opportunity to ask questions, read labels, and find out how to install and maintain the carpet you buy.

Price and Particulars
Bear in mind that carpet is often priced per square yard, not square foot. (To calculate the price per square foot yourself, divide the price per yard by nine.) Be aware, too, that when you look at a carpet sample, the color might differ slightly from what would be delivered to your home. Consider asking for a roll-cut sample -- a piece of carpet cut from the lot you would actually purchase. This is particularly helpful when it comes to fibers with a tendency to fade, such as sisal or jute.

Padding
The pressure a carpet withstands results in crushed pile and ground-in dirt. Some of that can be alleviated by padding, which also absorbs sound. Not all paddings are suitable for all carpets, so ask before you buy. For instance, "hard" carpet, including those made from most plant fibers, can be damaged by ultra-cushiony padding (the space it creates invites shoe heels to puncture the carpet).

Installation
"Installing" an area rug is easy -- just be sure to lay down the proper padding first. But wall-to-wall can be quite tricky. To make sure carpet stays put and the seams are inconspicuous, leave the job to professionals. For large rooms, ask your retailer if the carpet you're buying will "seam well." No seam is invisible, but some carpets disguise them better than others.

Maintenance
Before cleaning, check the manufacturer's instructions. Cleaning methods for carpet vary by fiber, but a weekly once-over using a vacuum with good suction and a rotating head keeps many carpets looking their best. (For delicate carpets, such as hand-woven or hand-tufted, use a vacuum without a rotating head.) A professional can steam-clean synthetic and wool carpet, if needed.

Also see Kinds of Carpet and Carpet Fiber Primer

From Martha Stewart Living, September 2005

5 Carpet Cleaning Tips

As carpet cleaning professionals we are always asked for tips on how to keep carpets looking great. That is why we have put together 5 basic tips to help keep your carpet looking clean and fresh.

Carpet Cleaning Tip 1 - Create a Schedule

Dust accumulation is the biggest culprit in giving carpets that old, grungy look. A regular vacuum and shampoo schedule helps to reduce the dust level in your carpet. We recommend a quick vacuum every day (at least in the heavy traffic areas)to remove dust and a shampoo every 6-12 months. Be sure to buy all supplies beforehand (vacuum bags and/or belts, shampoo).



The combination of these methods when done properly will remove oils, greases and whatever stains finds itself on your carpet.



Carpet Cleaning Tip 2 - Clean Spills Immediately

The longer that you let spills and stains remain on your carpet the harder they are to clean. Take care of spills and stains as soon as possible (For a stain guide chart, click here) before you're faced with a permanent stain on your carpet.



Carpet Cleaning Tip 3 - Use Mats at the Doorway

Doorways are the most heavily trafficked areas and should be protected with a mat. This will reduce the amount of dirt and dust that end up on your carpet, and hopefully throughout the house. Don't forget to regularly vacuum the mats.



4. Carpet Cleaning Tip 4 - Stock Up on Carpet Cleaning Supplies

Carpet cleaners can be mild or very strong. Always read the ingredients, and ventilate the room well when cleaning.

When using these products please read the manufactures instructions carefully and take the necessary precautions like wearing gloves and using goggles.



Carpet Cleaning Tip 5 - Hire a carpet cleaning professional

Let someone else worry about deep cleaning the carpets!

To choose a carpet cleaning professional be sure to ask for references. You shouldn't trust your carpet just anyone. See our post How to Hire a Professional Carpet Cleaner.



We hope that these tips are helpful to you and your carpet. Take good care them.

Benefits of Protecting Your Floor with Carpet or Rugs

Having a hard time deciding what type of flooring to put into your home. Below is a list provided by the Carpet and Rug Institute on the Benefit of Carpets and Rugs.



Provides warmth and comfort
Carpet provides thermal resistance, or R-value. In colder climates or seasons, it retains warm air longer, an energy conservation benefit. Carpet provides a comfortable environment in which to work and gives a space an overall warmer feeling.


Carpet and rugs add beauty and style to your home

You can choose from many thousands of carpet styles and colors. That means you can choose vibrant colors or heavier patterns and textures to represent a company’s corporate culture, or you can use a neutral foundation and calming colors to provide a good environment for healing or learning.




Cushions slips and falls
Carpet is ideal for cushioning our footsteps, reducing slips and falls and minimizing injuries when falls do occur. Carpet provides safety protection for everyone, but it is particularly helpful for youngsters at schools or the elderly at such facilities as hospitals or nursing homes.

Reduces noise
Many offices today have open area systems where phone conversations and frequent employee interactions can be distracting. Carpet helps increase employee productivity by absorbing sounds. Adding cushion beneath a carpet reduces noise even further. Carpet also works as a sound barrier between floors by helping to block sound transmission to spaces below. Plus, carpet on stairs helps mask the sound of constant foot traffic.


Maintains appearance
Carpet will maintain its life and beauty for many years when properly cleaned and maintained. However, it is important to follow carpet manufacturer’s cleaning recommendations for the type of carpet and application you have. Keep your carpet looking great over time by following these additional steps:

* Preventative maintenance — protect your investment before problems occur.

* Vacuuming — the single most effective way to keep carpet clean.

* Spot and stain removal — use CRI seal of Approval products.

* Professional deep cleaning — a periodic must.


Improves indoor air quality
Carpet helps improve IAQ by trapping allergens and other particles so they can be vacuumed away. Plus, carpet is the lowest VOC emitter of common floor choices, and requires fewer cleaning chemicals than other floor coverings.







Saves money over time
The sum of the initial cost of carpet, plus the maintenance costs over the total time of the life of the carpet, is usually less than hard surface flooring. Plus, cleaning carpet is less labor intensive. A survey of commerical buildings that had maintenance programs for hard surfaces and carpet demonstrated that carpet cost less to maintain. The study found that hard surface floors require two and one-half times more cleaning time than carpet, and cleaning supplies were about seven times more expensive for vinyl floors than for carpeted floors. While upfront purchase and installation costs are more expensive for carpet than hard flooring, carpet expenditures prove to be more cost-effective over the full life cycle of the product.

Carpet Terms

We found this great article on carpet terms from the Carpet and Rug Institute. Check it out below to see how many terms you are familiar with and be sure to use them the next time you have your carpets professionally cleaned!


"CRI has listed some basic terminology below to help you become more educated when it comes to your carpet purchase and installation. Familiarizing yourself with these common carpet terms will help you communicate more effectively with your carpet retailer and installer, and it will help you make the most informed carpet decisions possible.

Antimicrobial — A chemical treatment added to carpet to reduce the growth of common bacteria, fungi, yeast, mold and mildew.

Antistatic — The ability of a carpet system to dissipate an electrostatic charge before it reaches the threshold of human sensitivity.

Attached Cushion — A cushioning material, such as foam, rubber, urethane, PVC, etc., adhered to the back side of a carpet to provide additional dimensional stability, thickness and padding.

Average Pile Yarn Weight —Mass per unit area of the pile yarn including buried portions of the pile yarn. In the United States, it is usually expressed as ounces per square yard.

Backing — Fabrics and yarns that make up the back of the carpet as opposed to the carpet pile or face. In tufted carpet:

* Primary backing — A woven or nonwoven fabric in which the yarn is inserted by the tufting needles.

* Secondary backing — Fabric laminated to the back of the carpet to increase dimensional stability.

In woven carpet, the backing consists of “construction yarns” which are interwoven with the face yarn.


Berber — A loop-pile carpet style tufted with thick yarn, such as wool, nylon or olefin. Often having random specks of color in contrast to a base hue, this carpet style has a full, comfortable feel, while maintaining an informal, casual look. Currently, this term has expanded to describe many level or multilevel loop carpet styles.

Binding — A band or strip sewn over a carpet edge to protect, strengthen or decorate the edge.

Broadloom — A term used to denote carpet produced in widths wider than 6 feet. Broadloom is usually 12 feet wide, but may also be 13 feet 6 inches and 15 feet wide.

Bulked continuous filament (BCF) — Continuous strands of synthetic fiber formed into yarn bundles of a given number of filaments and texturized to increase bulk and cover. Texturizing changes the straight filaments into kinked or curled configurations.

Construction — The manufacturing method (i.e., tufted, woven) and the final arrangement of fiber and backing materials as stated in its specification.

Cushion — Any kind of material placed under carpet to provide softness and adequate support when it is walked upon. Carpet cushion provides a softer feel underfoot and provides added acoustical and insulation benefits and longer wear life for the carpet. In some cases, the carpet cushion is attached to the carpet when it is manufactured. Also referred to as “padding” or “underlay,” although “cushion” is the preferred term. Cushion under most residential carpet should be a thickness of no greater than 7/16" and no less than 1/4" with 6 pound per cubic feet density. If the carpet is a Berber or a low profile carpet, choose a cushion of no more than 3/8" thickness with 8 pounds of density.

Cut Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of cut ends of pile yarn.

Cut-Loop Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of a combination of cut ends of pile yarns and loops.

Delamination — Separation of the secondary backing or attached cushion from the primary backing of the carpet.

Density — Refers to the amount of pile yarn in the carpet and the closeness of the tufts. In general, the denser the pile, the better the performance.

Dimensional Stability — The ability of the carpet to retain its original size and shape, e.g. a secondary backing adds dimensional stability to carpet.

Direct Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet is adhered to the floor.

Double Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet cushion is first adhered to the floor with an adhesive, and the carpet is then glued to the cushion.

Filament — A single continuous strand of natural or synthetic fiber.

Finished Yarn Weight —Yarn weight in ounces/square yard of a finished (after manufacturing process) carpet. The finished yarn weight is determined by removing all yarn from the finished carpet and dissolving any foreign non-yarn materials.

Fluffing — Appearance on carpet surface of loose fiber fragments left during manufacture; not a defect, but a characteristic that disappears after carpet use and vacuuming. Sometimes called “fuzzing” or “shedding.”

Frieze — Pronounced "free-zay," this tightly twisted yarn gives carpet a rough, nubby appearance.

Fuzzing — Hairy effect on fabric surface caused by fibers slipping out of the yarn with wear or wet cleaning.

Gauge — The distance between two needle points expressed in fractions of an inch. Applies to both knitting and tufting.

Hand — The tactile aesthetic qualities of carpet and textiles, how it feels to the hand.

Heat Setting— The process that sets the twist by heat or steam, enabling yarns to hold their twist over time. Important in cut pile carpet. Most nylon, olefin and polyester cut-pile carpet are heat-set.

Indoor/Outdoor Carpet — A term synonymous with outdoor carpet.

Level Loop — The pile loops are of substantially the same height and uncut, making a smooth, level surface.

Loop Pile — Carpet style having a pile surface consisting of uncut loops. May be woven or tufted. Also called “round wire” in woven carpet terminology.

Luster — Brightness or sheen of fibers, yarns, carpet or fabrics.

Miter Joint — A junction of two pieces of carpet (or other material) at an angle. Most miter joints involve pieces at right angles to one another with their ends cut at 45 degrees to form the joint.

Pile — The visible surface of carpet consisting of yarn tufts in loop and/or cut configuration. Sometimes called “face” or “nap”.

Pile Crush — Loss of pile thickness due to compression and bending of tufts caused by traffic and heavy furniture. The tufts collapse into the air space between them. This may be irreversible if the yarn has inadequate resilience or the pile has insufficient density for the traffic load. Frequent vacuuming will lift the pile for longer carpet life.

Pilling — A condition of the carpet face (which may occur from heavy traffic) in which fibers from different tufts become entangled with one another, forming tangled masses of fibers. Pills may be cut off with scissors.

Plush — Luxuriously smooth-textured carpet surface in which individual tufts are only minimally visible and the overall visual effect is that of a single level of yarn ends. This finish is normally achieved only on cut-pile carpet produced from spun yarns by brushing and shearing. Sometimes called “velvet-plush.”

Ply — 1. A single-end component in a plied yarn. 2. The number that tells how many single ends have been ply-twisted together to form a plied yarn, e.g., two-ply or three-ply.

Power Stretcher — A carpet installation tool used to stretch carpet for installation with a tackless strip. According to industry standards, residential carpet, installed over A cushion with a tackless strip, must be power-stretched to prevent wrinkles and ripples.

Resilience — Ability of carpet pile or cushion to recover original appearance and thickness after being subjected to compressive forces or crushing under traffic.

Saxony — A cut-pile carpet texture with twisted yarns in a relatively dense, erect configuration. The effect is well-defined tuft tips.

Seams — In a carpet installation, the line formed by joining the edges of two pieces of carpet by the use of seaming tapes, hand sewing or other techniques.

Seam Sealing — A procedure in which a continuous bead of adhesive is applied to the trimmed edges of carpet to be joined at a seam. Seam sealing prevents fraying and unraveling at the seam.

Serging — A method of finishing edges of area rugs by use of heavy, colored yarn sewn around the edges in a close, overcast stitch.

Shading — A change in the appearance of a carpet due to localized distortions in the orientation of the fibers, tufts or loops. Shading is not a change in color or hue, but a difference in light reflection.

Sisal — A carpet style mimicking the woven look of rugs made from a natural plant fiber. The pattern has the appearance of interwoven webs but is created on a tufting machine by continually adjusting the height of each pile yarn.

Soil Retardant — A chemical finish applied to fibers or carpet surfaces that inhibit the attachment of soil.

Sprouting — Protrusion of individual tuft or yarn ends above the pile surface. May be clipped with scissors.

Staple — Short lengths of fiber that may be converted into spun yarns by textile yarn spinning processes. These spun yarns are also called “staple” yarns. For carpet yarns spun on the common, modified worsted systems, most staple is six to eight inches long. Staple fiber may also be converted directly into nonwoven fabrics, such as needle-punched carpet.

Stitches — Stitches per inch. Number of yarn tufts per running inch of a single tuft row in tufted carpet.

Stretch-In — Installation procedure for installing carpet over a separate cushion using a tackless strip; properly performed with a power stretcher.

Tackless Strip — Wood or metal strips fastened to the floor near the walls of a room containing either two or three rows of pins angled toward the walls on which the carpet backing is stretched and secured in a stretch-in installation.

Tuft Bind — Force required to pull a tuft from the carpet.

Tufted — Carpet manufactured by the insertion of tufts of yarn through a carpet-backing fabric, creating a pile surface of cut and/or loop ends.

Twist—- The winding of the yarn around itself. Should be neat and well defined. A tighter twist provides enhanced durability.

Underlay — Carpet cushion under rugs.

Woven — Carpet produced on a weaving loom in which the lengthwise yarns and widthwise yarns are interlaced to form the fabric, including the face and the backing.

Yarn Ply — The number of single yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn.

Hope this helps you better understand carpet!

Tips to Hiring a Professional Carpet Cleaner

Inviting a professional carpet cleaner into your home can be a tough decision. Looking for somebody who will take care of your carpets the way that you would doesn't always happen. You can improve your chances of finding the best carpet cleaning company in your area by making sure you get all the information you can ahead of time.


Make sure the company is certified.
Certification ensures that your carpet cleaning professional has taken steps to educate themselves in the best carpet care and carpet cleaning techniques available. The largest is the Institute for Cleaning Restoration Certification (IICRC).

What kind of guarantee is offered?
If there is a problem with the performance of the carpet cleaning professional, make sure the guarantee provides for a follow up cleaning at no charge. It is usually best to contact the professional right away as most guarantees last between 14-30 days.

Make sure to get a full list of services included in a price quote.
It is best to have a list of all the basics steps the carpet cleaning professional will be performing such as pre-spraying or pre-treating the carpet and basic stain spotting. Find out ahead of time the charges for extra services such as such as pet odor removal or tough stain removals.

Who will be actually coming to your home and what are their qualifications?
If employees come to clean your carpet important questions should be asked such as:

• do they wear uniforms?
  
• are all employees safely identifiable?
  
• does the company guarantee the work if it is a subcontractor?

Find out exactly what methods are used to clean your carpet.
Understanding some basic differences in carpet cleaning techniques will help you to choose what is best for your carpet and ultimately who the best professional for the job is.

Steam cleaning may be best for those who suffer from asthma and allergies. With steam cleaning, you can get rid of most fungi, dust mites as well as viruses. It is recommended that you steam clean your carpets at least once every two years depending on how many people live in your household and how often they walk over a particular carpet.

Dry powder carpet cleaning is a method to clean your carpets without soaking them. A powder is spread onto your carpet, and is agitated and worked into the carpet with either an orbital floor machine with a round plastic bristle brush or a machine with counter rotating plastic brushes. This powder acts like thousands of little sponges scrubbing and absorbing dirt from the carpet as it is agitated. After the powder dries, in only a few minutes, the carpet is vacuumed to remove the sponges and the floor is ready to be used.

Shampoo cleaning, also referred to as encapsulation, involves the application of a shampoo to the carpet. This shampoo absorbs soil and then crystallizes. It is then agitated by a brush mounted on a floor machine and vacuumed up. Drying time is from one to two hours.


Now you know all the important questions to ask a carpet cleaning company before you sign any agreement with them. One last tip is to ask for references. If they do a good job, they won’t mind giving you references.


*If you have a favorite carpet cleaner in your area, please let us know! CleaningBuddys is compiling a searchable database for our website. Your input will help others find services they need while helping your provider's company grow in this economy!

The Ultimate Solution in Easy Furniture Lifting!

We've all heard the warnings to take care care of your back! Yet when we have to lift something heavy most of us resort to the easiest position of bending over and lifting, putting a strain on the back and possibly causing an injury! However, there is a solution, with the the patented Lift Buddy, a carpet cleaning tool used by professionals that is now available to homeowners!














You can lift heavy couches, dressers, tables, and beds without strain! Simply place the tip of the Lift Buddy under the edge of the piece of furniture you want to lift and firmly press down on the handle and the Lift Buddy raises the furniture so that you can place a slider under the leg. Repeat the process on all 4 legs and now you can easily move the furniture around the room, or clean the floors without any strain on your back.

How does it work?
The handle of the Lift Buddy has a rubber grip, so that you can hold it firmly. The strong metal handle is designed to give you the leverage you need to EASILY lift the corners of any type of furniture. The non-marking wheels are designed to help you move or roll slightly as you lift the furniture. The tip is tapered so it will slide under that edge of the furniture to give the lift power. Be sure to watch the video to see how it works.


Simply place the tip of the Lift Buddy under the edge of the furniture that you want to place a slider under and apply pressure on the rubber handle. Lift just high enough to place the slider under the leg. Repeat the same process on each corner of the piece you are wanting to move and then slide it with ease.

Made in the USA!
The Lift Buddy was developed in 1992, making it the original back-saving lifting device! It is still manufactured in the USA, using top quality materials and following the strict design of the US held patent. CleaningBuddys is proud to offer this superior product in our line of professional tools for the home!

Introducing the Wall Buddy... the Original Professionally Designed Corner Guard!

The Ultimate Solution in Corner Protection! Do you have black marks on the corners of your walls and furniture? With the Wall Buddy you will never have to worry about that again. This cleaning tool is used by professional carpet cleaners to protect corners from those black hoses of the vacuum and any other cords that are pulled around in your home.
The Wall Buddy is made from a light weight non-marking durable plastic and fits protectively over the corners of your walls and then stores nicely in the closet when you are done.

Who is the Wall Buddy for?
The Wall Buddy is for everyone who uses any type of cord or hose in the home. Get them out when your cleaning people, your carpet cleaner or any other professional who pulls a hose or cord is working in your home. Use them during renovation or repair work. You'll find many uses for this Original corner guard!

Who Developed the Wall Buddy?
The Wall Buddy was developed by a professional carpet cleaner in 1998 who knew that there had to be a way to protect the corners of the walls and furniture in the homes he cleaned in. So after some thought he created the Wall Buddy and has found that it is the perfect housecleaning companion to protect those corners in every home.










Hundreds of thousands have been sold throughout the world to carpet cleaners and other professionals. Now you can have it for your home. Buy Now from CleaningBuddys!

How does it work?
The Wall Buddy is made from non-marking durable plastic. It makes a 45 degree angle and has a wide platform that fits snugly onto corners making a barrier between the wall and the hoses or cords. The handy holes near the top make it easy to carry and set in place. Professionals recommend at least three for residential use but more may be practical depending on your floorplan, placement of furniture, and how often you plan to use them.
The simple design makes them stack and store neatly!








You don't have to be embarrassed of the corners in your home anymore! Keep the clean and protected with this wonderful addition to your home cleaning arsenal.

Review: SteamFast SF-140 Steam Mop

This is supposed to be the best inexpensive Steam Mop.
Read the review below to find out more!

Best inexpensive steam mop?



















pros

* Swiveling mop head
* Uses tap water
* Easy to fill and maneuver
* 19-foot power cord
* Removable handle

cons

* Durability complaints
* Relatively small water reservoir
* Can leave floors wet
* Can't be used on all types of flooring
* Doesn't sanitize unless left in place for 15 seconds


Reviewers and owners agree that the SteamFast SF-140 steam mop is the best option in its price range, although the Bissell 1867-7 steam mop (*est. $80) gets better reviews overall. The SteamFast mop can steam for about 12 minutes without refilling (compared to 15 minutes for the Bissell version), and reviews say it cuts right through dried liquids and other stains on a variety of flooring materials.

As with all steam mops, the SteamFast SF-140 should not be used on unsealed wood or cork floors. Some owners say that they use towels to absorb excess water left on the floor after mopping, but this is a very common complaint about steam mops. If you can budget more for a steam mop, reviews say that the Bissell 1867-7 is sturdier.


We read the best review of the SteamFast SF-140 at KYW-TV's website CBS3.com, which records the results of Good Housekeeping's steam-mop testing. This mop aced the testing and outperformed the other two mops tested. At Amazon.com, this mop has garnered a handful of reviews, but at Walmart.com, it's been reviewed more than 150 times.



You can view more reviews at: http://www.consumersearch.com/steam-mops/steamfast-sf-140-steam-mop